Antarctica has always been on my bucket list. I finally had a chance to make my dream come true when I embarked on a 10-day sailing from Ushuaia, Argentina on board Silver Cloud, the newly refurbished expedition ship by Silversea Cruises. 6 days in Antarctica, 10 landings and Zodiac cruises, 1,919 nautical miles sailed, thousands of penguins and countless memories – this cruise was an adventure of a lifetime.
Voyage to Antarctica
We boarded Silver Cloud Expedition in Ushuaia, also know as “Fin del Mundo,” or the end of the world. After extensive refurbishment, Silver Cloud is considered to be the most spacious and comfortable ice class vessel in expedition cruising. Usually, it can fit up to 254 passengers, but for the polar sailings, they only allow 200. Everything about Silversea Cruises was top notch. The ship, the cabin, the service, the dining – every little detail exceeded expectations, which was incredible considering that we were on an expedition sailing to the end of the earth.
And it was a true expedition. We had a large team of scientists who held educational sessions and went with us on shore. The entire expedition team was incredible. Every evening there was a briefing session about our plans for the next day. The weather in Antarctica is unpredictable, and plans changed all the time, but they still were able to keep us informed and prepared. These were our daily experiences and adventures:
Day 1 - First Penguin Encounter
There were two landings on our first day. The first one was on an ice-free Barrientos Island in the Aitcho island group on the west side of English Strait, and the second one was in Yankee Harbour. Silversea did a great job organizing the landings and the Zodiac tours. There are limitations on how many people can be on land at one time. The expedition team divided all passengers into four groups. The start times for each group rotated daily so that everyone had a chance to experience Antarctica at different times of the day.
During our first landing we didn’t know what to expect. You could feel the excitement in the air as people were climbing into the Zodiacs. As we got closer to the shore we quickly realized that what we thought were rocks, were actually penguins! It’s very hard to describe the feeling you get the first time you step on shore of a continent, not many have been to, and see hundreds of penguins standing right in front of you. It truly takes your breath away.
Barrientos Island is favored by a large Gentoo penguin colony. The expedition team instructed us to not get closer than 5 feet to the penguins. If they were to get close to you, then you should not move and enjoy the encounter. You could watch penguins all day. They are just so adorable. Chicks were in the process of molting, which means they still had their fluffy baby feathers. Some of them were very curious and kept coming close to us looking for food. It was such an incredible experience.
Day 2 - Mikkelsen Harbour
On the 2nd day we arrived to Mikkelsen Harbour. Discovered by the Swedish Antarctic Expedition in 1901-1904, it is a small bay indenting the south side of Trinity Island in the Palmer Archipelago. In the morning we were fortunate to go on shore where we witnessed many seals and penguins coexisting peacefully.
When you get out of the Zodiak, you usually step into the water, so waterproof rubber boots are a must for a trip to Antarctica. You can bring your own or you can rent them from Silversea. All of the boots get tagged with your cabin number and are kept in the mudroom so that you don’t drag dirt around the ship or back to your cabin. The entire process was organized very well. Silversea also provides you with a signature red parka, a backpack and a water bottle, making it very easy to spot your fellow explorers in red on land.
In the afternoon we embarked on a relaxing 90 minute Zodiac cruise. The key to stay warm in the Zodiac is definitely layers. Even though the summer temperature in Antarctica is around 30-40 degrees, it can feel very cold when it’s windy and rainy. During the cruise we were able to get close to several really cool icebergs. They looked unbelievably blue due to the light being refracted through the ice.
Day 3 - Hiking on Danko Island
The highlight of the third day was definitely the hike we did on Danko Island. The island is in the middle of the beautiful Errara Channel and is home to a large number of Gentoo penguins. The hike was not easy, but absolutely worth it. Views from the top were some of the most incredible views I have ever seen in my life.
That night we tried one of the specialty restaurants – the Grill. During the day it’s a nice place to grab lunch, and in the evening they transform it into a unique dinner experience. They bring out hot stones, and you cook your steak or seafood right in front of you. Even though the restaurant is outside by the pool, the cold did not stop anyone from enjoying that restaurant. Everyone was wearing their parkas, hats and gloves, and having a blast.
Day 4 - Life in Antarctica
On the fourth day we learned what it takes to live in Antarctica. We got to visit Gonzales Videla Station in Paradise Bay. It is a Chilean research base named after Chilean President Gabriel González Videla, who in the 1940s became the first chief of state of any nation to visit Antarctica. The research team showed us around and talked about their lives and work during the summer. The base is closed in the winter. We even got our passports stamped and were able to mail some postcards. Who knew there is a post office in Antarctica?
There were so many Gentoo penguins there. It was hard to tell who was in charge on this station: the researchers or the penguins. It was so interesting to see penguins living with humans side by side in harmony. According to our expedition team, penguins always have the right of way. So, it took us quite some time to get around the station, but we definitely didn’t mind.
Day 5 - Crossing the Lemaire Channel
The weather on day five was the windiest. It was also the day we were doing a crossing of a very narrow and scenic Lemaire Channel. It is one of the top tourist destinations in Antarctica. Steep cliffs, icebergs and sheets of ice fill the passage which is 6.8 miles long and just 0.9 mile wide at the narrowest point. Our captain, Vincent Taillard, did an excellent job navigating the tricky passage. As an added bonus, we got to see many humpback whales right next to the bow of the ship.
Day 6 – The Polar Plunge
The sun was finally out just in time for our last two landings at Deception Island and Half Moon Island. Deception Island is an island in South Shetland Islands off the Antarctic Peninsula. It is one of the safest harbors in Antarctica. Since the early 19th century Deception Island was a favorite refuge from the storms and icebergs. It was also where a lot of whaling operations took place. That’s why they called it the Whalers Bay. By 1914 there were 13 factory ships. They took the carcasses and boiled them down to extract whale oil using large iron boilers and storing the results in iron tanks.
The night before, the expedition team told us that we had an opportunity to do a polar plunge. Everyone was skeptical but still put on the bathing suits underneath all of the layers. The bay was stunning. Due to the volcanic nature of the island, Whalers Bay has a black sand beach with steam on the water. There must have been over a hundred of seals bathing in the sunshine. After exploring the island it was time to make a choice. We decided to do a group polar plunge. The steam on the water was definitely deceiving. At first it felt warm, but as we all ran in, we realized how freezing the water truly was. What an adrenaline rush! Our expedition team welcomed us back on shore with towels. Back on the ship we were also welcomed with a cup of hot chocolate. That night there was a Polar Plunge certificate in my cabin commemorating the daring dip in the icy seas at the end of the earth.
Is Antarctica Worth It?
Absolutely! It is truly a one-of-a-kind experience, and it is unforgettable. Even though you are on board of a luxury cruise ship, it feels like a real expedition, and you are a real explorer. The scenery is breathtaking, and the wildlife is humbling. Penguins, seals, whales, birds – there is so much that will forever change the way you see nature. It’s an incredible feeling knowing that you are in their domain, and that they are in charge. Also, nothing really beats eating breakfast, that is perfectly served in your cabin, and watching an iceberg float by with a penguin sitting on top of it.
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